Trois Ilets to Sainte Anne's

March 18-21 - Trois Ilets and On Southward

Across the bay (“anse” in French) from Fort-de-France are several good anchorages. Early afternoon, after having had lunch. we got inspired to make a move. There was no need for our normal preparation because Trois Ilets was only a hop-and-a-skip away. We were soon on our way.

We anchored in six meters depth behind one of the small three islands (hence the name Trois Ilets) that lie off the small village. As soon as we got settled, the wind started picking up to twenty plus knots. We considered taking the dinghy to shore but decided against it - it would be a wet ride in.

The wind pretty much blew hard all through the night. In the morning, in spite of the wind, we went to shore. Trois Ilets is a quaint and peaceful village. Many of the buildings have red, fish-scale tile roofs giving them a rustic and gingerbread cottage appearance. Very handsome. We walked passed an elementary school and as we did, I took a couple of photos of the kids playing. One of the women watching over the kids came out and started yelling at me in French for five minutes even when I was giving her my best puzzled look and spoke only English back at her. I was considering showing her that I would erase the two photos I had taken, but she was in such a tizzy that I just ended up walking away. But I learned my lesson - no more photos of kids on playgrounds.

The following day we motored a mile or two further and plunked our anchor down in Anse Mitan. Most of the area is on a peninsula, with a touristy village on one end and a marina with shops and restaurants on the other. At the tip of the peninsula, with spectacular beaches and views of Fort-de-France there is a large boarded-up hotel. Really strange that a place like that would have gone out of business.

We got back to the boat by 1 o’clock and again had the urge to move on - this place wasn’t doing it for us. We decided to try and make it to Marin, which is in the far south of the island, about fifteen miles away. With the strong easterly winds, it would be a snap.

At least that’s what we thought. We had a nice broad reach sail for a short while but it soon turned into a 25 knot southern wind. We dropped the sails and motored. The seas picked up and with the strong winds, it was slow going. We passed by some interesting bays and beaches and went in between Diamond Rock, a historic rock just of the coast.

Apparently, Admiral Nelson, back in the early 1800’s commissioned Diamond Rock as a British ship. Incredibly, he had his men climb to the top of this rock and haul up canons and supplies so they could shoot at French ships moving around the island. Needless to say, that didn’t please Napoleon too much. He sent ships to take care of the problem. But the British hung in there raising a raucous for eighteen months. When we sailed passed the rock, I couldn’t even imagine climbing it, much less hauling canons straight up.

We got into the Marin area a little too late to navigate into the harbor, so instead, we opted to pull in to the nearby village of Sainte Anne’s. In the morning we took the dinghy ashore to St. Annes. From the moment we stepped ashore, it had a comfortable feel to it - not so touristy, a working village, but still cute. It had a tree-lined central square (actually a rectangle) with a church on one end and stores and restaurants on each side. On the east side of town, overlooking the harbor, there was a beautiful, mostly white, cemetery. Back at the town square, we were quite surprised when we found out we could get free wi-fi sitting on one of the benches in the square.

While we walked around, a sudden rain surprised us. Luckily, it was after noon - we stopped at a nearby café and had a beer. It was only a one-beer shower. We returned to Lahaina Roads and had our lunch.

Roseau to Port-de-France

March 16-17 - Roseau to St. Pierre and an Abrupt Departure to Port-de-France

I’m certain that in our visit, we slighted Dominica. It would have been great to rent a car and see more of the interior, where the rain forest are and to see Dominica’s eastern coast, which we missed totally. Next time.

I do think that even with the short time we spent there, we changed our earlier view of a “dangerous” place. The people we met were all very friendly and pleasant folks. We never felt in any sort of danger and heard nothing to the contrary from other cruisers.

We left Roseau early in the morning for St. Pierre, Martinique. Wind and sea conditions were zilch We didn’t have a long way to go - about 38 miles. Slowly, the wind starting picking up from the south east. After a couple of hours it clocked around to come from the south, just where we were going. Within a half an hour of that it was blowing 20 knots with gust to 29 knots and seas to match it. Uncanny! The wind knows just where we want to go.

Along the bouncy way we had lunch. Styrofoam cup-of-soups continue to fulfill the needs of a hungry sailor with their savory bites of peas, carrots, corn and high salt content. They’re easy to warm up in rough seas and the noodles provide that warm, filling sensation in the stomach. We ate it to the last kernel of corn. Hhmmmm….

We finally got into St. Pierre and found a spot to anchor among the other yachts on the south side of town. We decided against going into town to check in. We’d do that in the morning.

At 6a.m. sharp we were awakened by male voices and knocking against the hull of the boat. Local fishermen were telling us in French that they wanted us to move because they were going to be casting fishing nets in our area. Crap!!!

Sleepy-eyed and all, we got the anchor up and moved to the opposite side of the anchorage and dropped the anchor. No sooner had we gotten everything in place when other fishermen approached us and said that we’d have to move - they were going to be putting out their nets here. #&$%@&!~@!!!!!

That was the last straw. We pulled up anchor and as much as we wanted to see St. Pierre, we headed south to the capital of Martinique, Fort-de-France.

St. Pierre has an interesting history in that it was a place that the Spanish, in the mid- 1600’s killed off the last of the Carib Indians. In the slaughter, the Indians cursed the French in revenge. Mt. Pelee would retaliate.

It took a few years, but indeed, in 1902 the volcano erupted with little warning and killed most of its 30,000 residents. And we still could see much of the lava flow that had gone down the hill. Incredible.

After so rudely having been awakened by the fishermen, we went southward another thirteen miles to Fort-de-France. We were anchored snugly in front of Fort St. Louis in a couple of hours.

Fort-de-France reminded me a bit of the New Orleans French Quarters. Among the sights we saw were the fresh produce market, the fish market, the St. Louis Cathedral, Fort St. Louis and the Schoelcher Library. The cathedral is not anything like the ones I've seen in Paris - much more utilitarian, making use of exposed iron in its architecture. The library, a very unique looking building, is dedicated to Victor Schoelcher. Apparently, Schoelcher fought hard against slavery (unlike Napoleon’s wife, Josephine, who was a supporter of slavery and influenced Napoleon himself on his views on slavery). Her statue in the city park was beheaded a few years ago. Coincidence? Maybe not.

Next, we plan on sailing across the bay to a place called Troi Islets. Perhaps today, perhaps tomorrow. Afterall, we ARE retired.

Roseau, Dominica

March 13- 14 - Portsmouth, Dominica and onward to Roseau

We signed up with Martin for an Indian River tour. The following day he was there to pick us up on time and off we went. As we got to the river, he switched from using the outboard motor to oars (mandatory since it is a national park). He told us a bit of history, about the life of the Caribs along the river, how Columbus and his men went up this very river to meet with the Carib Indian chief and also to fetch water for his ships.

As we progressed up the river it turned into the quintessential jungle riverboat adventure (sans Humphrey Bogart and the African Queen) . But this was the real thing. It was a bit swampy, with large crabs on the sides of the river, bloodwood trees with their curved and spooky roots along the river bank, vines hanging into the river and the sounds of numerous birds. Reassuringly, Martin stated that no harmful animals exist in Dominica. No poisonous snakes, spiders, malaria, crocs and so on.

At the upper end of the river trip there was a small primitive restaurant. I went in to the river for a dip in the cool water. It was refreshing and quiet, to just lie in the water and listen to the birds chirping. It was an adventure in spite of not being a unique one, since both Dave and I had been on jungle river trips. (Dave’s trips had been more exciting. They occurred back during the Vietnam war (or what the Vietnamese today refer to as the American war) when there were people shooting at him.)

In the evening, we took a long walk looking for a Creole restaurant. There were none to be found that were open, even though it was early Saturday night. We ended up at a tiny restaurant called “Nora’s”. Nora stood outside barbecuing chicken legs and thighs. They smelled delicious. The chicken was THE dinner (and a beer). Nothing else was served. It was a sparse yet tasty meal.

That night was a terribly rolly night for us. Winds were out of the south and the swells came from the west. The boat rolled furiously from one side to the other most of the night. With little sleep and bleary eyed, as soon as we got up, we prepared for our departure to Roseau.

Soon, we were underway to the capital of Dominica in the southwestern part of the island. Not much more than an hour had passed, while motoring into hefty seas and winds that were blowing from the south, when we noticed the engine suddenly getting hotter. Dave went down below to check on the engine, while I shut it down and got a sail up. The fun started.

It turns out that the fan belt which turns the water pump got shredded. Being that this is a boat and nothing is ever easy, to change the belt Dave needed to undo the coolant hose, draining a lot of the coolant into the bilge. Anyway, it all got taken care of and soon we were back pounding into the wind and seas.

We got into Roseau early in the afternoon and were approached by one of the boat boys. Already we knew to ask for Pancho. The boat boy directed us to one of Pancho’s moorings and helped get us set up. We were moored in 45 meters of water - happy not to have had to anchor at this depth.

Pancho, a pretty hip looking rasta fellow, came by the following morning to check if we wanted to do any tours (that’s where they make their money). The typical greeting here is to ask if “everything’s alright”, and he did just that. We agreed to a morning snorkeling trip to a marine reserve called Champagne Beach, which we had heard some good things about.

One of his boys came by soon afterwards and picked us up. It turned out to be a unique snorkeling trip. The area, known for its bubbly water from underground lava vents, emits small fizzy bubbles. There also was lots of varieties of coral (some looking like small volcanoes craters) and various fish and eel. I was on the lookout for seahorses, but didn’t have any luck finding them.

In the afternoon we walked into the town of Roseau. A busy place with a typical third world feel. Lots of small grocery and apparel stores, cafes, bars and a few restaurants. Illegal copies of DVD’s and CD’s were on practically every corner.

Next we got on a bus (a van) and went to the most southern part of Dominica. Scott’s Head is a marine reserve and has a small fishing village alongside. The bay consists of an extinct volcano crater. We didn’t bring our snorkeling gear, which was unfortunate because it looked like a great spot with a wall-like structure.

On the way back, the bus (again a van), happened to stop along the beach by some fishermen. Some of them had just returned from a successful day of fishing. The driver and we negotiated for fish. We ended up with a small but nice looking tuna.

And so ends another day in the life of cruisers. Assuming no major weather change, we are planning for a crossing to Martinique tomorrow.

Dominica

March 11-14 Iles des Saintes to Dominica

We put many a footsteps in Bourg de Saintes. It was a place that had an island feel, yet it did have a bit of a touristy touch to it. But all in a tasteful manner. We found one restaurant that had excellent sourdough bread. It made very tasty sandwiches.

On Friday, we went to check out at customs and immigration and to our surprise found out that it was a holiday (not mentioned in our book). We investigated and found it was a religious holiday dealing with a post Mardi Gras day. Well, I could think of worse places to have to spend another day. The rest of the day we went to another beach on the eastern side, snorkeled a bit, then went back to the boat and took the dinghy to explore some other areas of the island more easily accessible by boat and did some more snorkeling.

We went to customs first thing Friday morning and checked out. We were on our way to Dominica by 10am. With a fresh breeze out of the northeast, we had a comfortable beam reach for the short sixteen mile crossing.

From the stories we had heard, Dominica had a mystic and somewhat dangerous side to it. There were reports of boats being boarded at night by thieves and the island was known for having “boat boys”. These fellows hang out waiting for incoming yachts and approach them wanting to provide yachting services such as tours, laundry, trash, fuel, water and security.

We’ve were given a couple of boat boy names to utilize. Albert and Martin are reportedly reliable guys who provide general yacht services, tours and boat security. Sure enough, as soon as we entered the harbor, a couple of boats approached us. We kept our eyes open for either Albert or Martin (names written on their boats). We shooed away a couple of fellows that approached us. Sure enough, in a few minutes Martin showed up. A nice guy, he greeted us and we told him that we’d like to use his services. Somehow this gets transmitted to the rest of the boat boys and after that no one else bugs you. Apparently, all of them have banded together and have provided yacht services and a measure of security in the night time to the yachts they service.

Still, knowing that boats have been boarded by thieves, we took extra precautions by locking things up on deck and hoisting the dinghy out of the water (engine and all) and locking it to the boat.

Enough emphasis on security. One of the things I love doing after a day’s sail is to get into the water. Mind you, the water is a comfortable mid-to-high 70’s. So after a hot and sweaty sail, to be able to jump into clean, clear and refreshingly (warm) water simply is outstanding. A light rinse with fresh water afterwards, and I’m a new man. Ah, the simple pleasures are the best. A glass of wine follows soon afterwards. Seriously, can it get any better?

The top thing that Dominica is known for is its nature. The saying goes that, if Columbus were to return today to all of the islands he visited in 1492 and 1493, the only one he’d recognize would be Dominica, for it has changed the least. It remains verdant, wild and rustic.

On Saturday, we got up and went to the fresh produce market. It definitely was third world qualities, but offered up lots of good looking vegetables, eggs and breads. The afternoon was busy with what is called the Indian River trip. More on that later.

Deshaies to Iles des Saintes

March 8-10 Deshaies to Iles des Saintes

Monday was spent on the boat because it mostly poured all day. We went into town briefly to buy a few grocery items but came back immediately - sopping wet. Luckily we had bought time on an internet wi-fi site so we got caught up with email and the blog.

Tuesday started out slightly cloudy but at least no rain. We opted to leave to check out Pigeon Island, known for good diving and snorkeling at the Cousteau Underwater Park. The sun became ever so stronger but, unfortunately, the wind and sea did too - all from the south where we were heading. By the time we got to Pigeon Island the wind was clocking twenty plus knots from the south. The anchorage was on the southern side of the island, which made it untenable to try to moor safely and the underwater visibility also probably was effected. We motored onward.

Next we thought of stopping at a small anchorage called Anse a la Barque. But as we approached it, the bay didn’t look all that inviting - small, deep water, a road around it and an unspectacular beach. Hey, we’re spoiled - if it’s not pristine looking, it’s thumbs down.

Now we were looking at the major town of Basse Terre, where there was a marina just south of it. As we closed up on it, we could see the volcano appear. It’s an active volcano but not spewing lava. The city of Basse Terre looked nicely laid out, with fields of sugar cane on its northern border. We called the marina on channel 16 but got no answer. The cruising book said it was difficult to find a slip there. The anchorage generally was considered to be a rolly one. We had had enough of that the last couple of nights at Deshaies. Onward we went, now to Iles des Saintes.

The weather kept improving, so it became warmer and the wind and sea action died down. The Iles des Saintes are a small group of islands, only a short distance south of Guadeloupe. There is only one small fishing village, Bourg de Saintes, that is on the island of Terre d’en Haut.

As we proceeded south, we suddenly saw a huge tail and a big splash - whales. The performed for us (all be it far away) doing some fancy tail maneuvers, breaches and more. It was quite the spectacle that lasted for several minutes.

We got into Bourg de Saintes and anchored just in time for drinks and dinner. The following day we walked around the village and ended up at the Napoleon Fort, high on a hill on the east side of town. Great view. They had a worthwhile museum that told of the island’s history and the naval battles that had taken place just off the islands against the British.

All-in-all we had a very pleasant day at this spot and decided to stay another day before heading off to Dominica.

Antigua to Guadeloupe

March 3-4 - Jolly Harbor to Falmouth

We left Jolly Harbor in the morning after getting Lahaina Roads ready to sail. The weather looked good with a promise of a fresh breeze that would make for a good sailing day.

As soon as we got out of the harbor and were able to, we hoisted the sails. Darren appeared to enjoy the experience of getting everything ready. We ran him through all the tacking strategies, using the GPS, using the wind gauge and setting the auto-pilot.

After about a five hour sail along the coast and making a few tacks, we pulled into Falmouth (though not without a small engine malfunction that Dave quickly fixed).

Falmouth is an open harbor to the west, but otherwise is well protected. On the other side of it lies English Harbor and the historic (Horatio) Nelson Dockyard. It’s a far better protected harbor, but it’s very tight with not much room for the boat to swing.

The following day, Thursday. we decided to rent another car since we had not seen much of the eastern part of Antigua. Among the places we visited, were Half Moon Bay and Nonsuch Bay. One of the interesting spots we found was in Nonsuch at a place called Harmony Hall. It had an exquisite panoramic view, with an old wind-driven sugar cane mill turned into a visitor center and a unique art gallery. We would have enjoyed a lunch there was it not for the fact that lunch prices hovered in the $40 price range. But the view would have been a good one.

On our island tour, one of the things that befuddled us was the cost of local pineapples. Apparently, these fruits are like gold here. At the mom and pop fruit stands we found them for $10 each and thought we were being taken advantage of and so balked at buying any. Turned out that that was the going rate. We don’t get it.

After a few more sights such as Parham Bay and Shirley Heights, we drove back to Falmouth. It had been a long but fun day.

March 5 - Antigua to Guadeloupe

Friday morning, after coffee and breakfast the three of us headed in by dinghy to the dock of the Antigua Yacht Club. Darren was taking a bus into St. John, spending the night there to be close to the airport for his early morning flight. Dave and I were headed out to Guadeloupe. It was odd sort of parting with Darren walking off to a bus stop near Nelson’s Dockyard and Dave and I, going off in the dinghy, back to Lahaina Roads.

Dave and I were quickly underway and had an uneventful forty mile crossing to Guadeloupe. The island appeared low to the east and mountainous to the west end. It was a few more miles to our destination.

We anchored in Deshaies (pronounced day-ay), a small fishing village, on the northwest side of the island. No sooner had we plunked down and secured the anchor, when customs officials off of a navy boat came by and requested permission to come aboard. They didn’t have the serious commando look - the commanding officer was in shorts and bare feet.

But it was the first time we ever had been boarded and checked so thoroughly. The crew, three men and a woman, asked all sorts of questions and searched the boat from stem to stern. I really don’t know what they were after, but obviously they found nothing. They were very friendly, cordial, finished their search and bid us adieu.

A short time later, a white, young, long-haired French fellow came by on his skiff asking if we wanted anything for the morning such as baguettes or croissants. Only in a French harbor does this happen, eh? I’m surprised he didn’t asked if we needed an expresso with that!

On Saturday, we took the dinghy into the town dock, which is up a small river. We got our customs and immigration check-in done and took and then decided to take the bus to the main island town of Pointe-a-Pitre.

Guadeloupe looks kind of like a lopsided butterfly. It’s actually composed of two separate islands divided by a river. The eastern island is flat and geologically older, while the western island is younger and more mountainous.

Pointe-a-Pitre is situated on the eastern island, where the butterfly’s wings connect to its body. Although not that far away, it took us 2 ½ hours by bus to get there. Since it was Saturday, lots of things were happening - fresh fruit markets, spice markets, clothing street vendors, street musicians and flea markets. It was a happening place.

We walked all around a section of town near the water, had a very tasty paiea lunch and set about to find our way home. We found Guadeloupe to be more prosperous and livelier looking than Antigua (of course - one is British and the other is French). The people seem friendly and most are well dressed, looking all too Western.

Lots of young teens walk with MP3 and cell phones. Some of the boys dress like the gang bangers back home with baggy pants that hang down to their knees and baseball caps, while the girls dress very smartly and look beautiful. Obesity, although present, doesn’t seem to be quite the problem it is in Antigua. They must be eating the French diet.

We got back to the boat in time for a quick swim before the evening’s cocktails were served - Crown Royal for Dave, wine for me. A light dinner consisting of scrumptious cucumber salad with soup followed.

Sunday morning, we walked up the hill to the south of Deshaies to find the Botanical Garden. With the warm weather, it was a hot and sweaty, one mile walk. The Jardin Botanique was a very nicely laid-out botanical garden with native and non-native tropical plants and birds. The paths were curvy and several times cut across a creek and a small waterfall. Although it wasn’t cheap, it was a worthwhile excursion.

The afternoon was spent catching up on email and reading. Just another grueling day in the life of a cruiser.

Antigua

February 25-March 2 - Antigua (St. John to Jolly Harbor)

The anticipation of making landfall at a new destination in the early morning always brings excitement and some anxiousness. In the early morning darkness, the island’s lights and the navigational lights, at times, look very similar. In spite of having the GPS, you still need to reconcile your position with what’s ahead of you and to ensure you are where it says you are. In my opinion, the attention given to this moment is not unlike that of a hunter in wait of his prey. Your alert, take note of every detail, look for reefs, buoys, wind position, lights, other incoming and outgoing traffic and what you need to do on the boat to prepare for landfall. It’s an exhilarating moment.

In the case of Antigua, we actually were heading to a nearby waypoint that was different from where we thought we were going. So things weren’t reconciling. But that soon became apparent and we made a small course correction and headed for St. John, Antigua‘s capital. Soon afterwards, we were joined by two cruise ships, all heading into the same harbor channel. What fun.

All went smoothly and shortly thereafter we were anchored safely in one of the three anchorages of St. John.

Antigua has well protected harbors, forested hilly areas and lots of beaches. Like most of the Caribbean islands, it was discovered by Christopher on his second voyage in 1493. What I did find out about his second voyage is that he was accompanied by a small armada - 17 ships that time. So often, when we hear that Columbus discovered such-and-such-a-place, in reality it could have been one of his ships that actually discovered it, not Chris himself.

Historically, like so many of the other islands, sugar plantations and salt ponds were worked by slaves. In those days salt was the key ingredient used not only to enhance the flavor of the food but rather it was used as a food preservative.

For the British, Antigua remained a strategic island. One of the more notable personalities who was in charge of its ports in the 1700’s was Lord Nelson. Turned out he was a real stickler to rules and thus kept the island’s harbors closed to any other commerce but British (certainly not to that renegade former British colony - America).

St. John has that same slightly tacky and disheveled appearance of so many of the towns in the Caribbean. Some of the architecture is notably interesting and does have some nicely designed historical buildings that are brightly painted well preserved. But there are many other buildings that are in disrepair and in need of serious rehab.

As we walked around town, we first were accosted by the tour guides and taxi drivers. They were after the cruise ship tourists. But as soon as we told them we were off of a yacht, they mostly left us alone. We wandered through town and found the public market, the fish market and the meat market. The meat market was gritty. This was not the kind of place you picked up a Styrofoam package of irradiated meat. This place gave you the feeling that the animal had just been slaughtered and that the meat was still warm. Having just read Michael Pollen’s “Omnivore’s Dilemma” I really connected with the environment.

One of the more architecturally interesting buildings we saw was the Anglican church, built in the early 1800’s. Inside it was all mahogany-like wood ceilings and pews. Dark but nice affect. Afterwards we ended up at the King Casino - it was air conditioned and had GREAT wi-fi for free.

When we got back to the boat, we spotted a fort that was near us. We took the dinghy in to check it out. Fort Louis turned out to be a wonderful find. It is out on a peninsula, overlooking the harbor entrance as well as a very nice beach. Unfortunately, the buildings are in total disrepair, but the canons are there still pointed ready to fire on incoming Spanish or French frigates.

The following day, my friend and ex-Cal Poly colleague, Darren, arrived from San Luis Obispo. Coincidentally, we had had enough of St. John and were ready to move on. After we hooked up with Darren, the three of us motored (all of an hour) to Jolly Harbor.

Lisa and Renz, fellow cruisers who we had met in St. Martin, were anchored in the harbor. We decided to rent a car together to see the island. The sojourn started that very afternoon as we drove southward towards Carlyle Bay and English Harbor. We stopped at a fort, which had a great view of the islands of Montserrat and Guadeloupe. We even spotted the rehab unit owned by Eric Clapton. Nelson’s Dockyard also was of interest. A place where in the 1700’s they brought in ships for repairs.

We also stopped at a fruit stand that had pineapples and mangos for sale. But at $10 for a pineapple, we balked. How could such plentiful fruit cost that much? Was it because we were tourists? (We later found out that that was the going price. Guess we‘ll be eating canned fruit instead.)

Obesity is wildly out of control in Antigua. We have not seen it this bad other than at Wal Marts in the U.S. Women seem to be afflicted most. Even young teen girls. This is going to be a huge health issue for them in the near future.

We stopped by to watch a cricket game that was in progress and with the help of Lisa (who is from New Zealand), and one of the local players, got to learn a lot about the game.

The next day as I was starting to make coffee, the propane ran out. With Lisa and Renz also needing propane, finding it became the day’s primary objective since we had a car at our disposal. Finding the filling station became sort of a geo-cache game - without a GPS. We kept getting hints from helpful and friendly locals as to where it was, but it took many tries to home in on the place.

We dropped off our bottles and went out to lunch at a beach resort. It turned out to be a place where many cruise ship tourists spend the day. We discovered that the severe obesity problem appears to afflict these Anglo-Saxons too. Lots of rotund, whitish-red folks walking around in skimpy bathing suits. It was not a pretty sight.

The following day we all met at the Java-Go-Go coffee shop. Free internet. Need I say more? The rest of the day, Lahaina Roads sailed along the western coast of Antigua in a brisk 15-20 knot breeze. Darren got a chance to steer the boat, handle the sails and sheets and tack a few times. After a good sail we put into Falmouth Harbor, among other cruising boats and super yachts. It was time for a cocktail and dinner.