Sunday, May 17, 2015

Angra dos Reis and back to Rio

Angra of dos Reis


We had  a slow but comfortable ferry ride from Ilha Grande to Angra dos Reis. Spent most of the trip talking to a friendly Irish traveler who had just completed his studies for physical therapy. 

After docking, Diane and I grabbed a taxi to our hotel, which was a few coves to the east of town. When the cab dropped us off, we knew instantly that this was going to be a good stay. - the hotel was right along the waterfront, with rooms all facing the water.


As with all rooms, we had a large balcony with table, chairs, a bench and a hammock. We spent a number of hours on that balcony.

On one of the days, we took a boat trip to nearby islands to swim, snorkle and walk along pristine beaches. Allbeit, the water visibilaty was nothing notable as well as the sea life, the trip was a lot of fun and we got a chance to get better acquainted with several other guests from other South American countries.   




We had all our meals at the hotel, something we rarely do. But the meals were good and the prices were reasonable - particularly since the meals were served a few feet from the water.

We took a bus back to the city of Angra dos Reis to see if there was anything else to sightsee. But, alas, there isn't much to see and what there is to see, is pretty run down. After a beer and snack near the fishing dock, we headed back to our Shangri-La. 



After three days in Angra, we left for Rio. The plan called for staying three nights in the Santa Teresa and Lapa area and three nights at a hotel in Copacabana.

Sunday, May 10, 2015

Ilha Grande, Brazil


Time is going by quickly. We were in Ilha Grande for four days and have moved onward. It's time to recap our adventures in Ilha Grande.


From Paraty we took a local bus north for nearly two hours that dropped us off in the middle of Angra dos Reis. We had a little bit of trouble finding the ferry to Ilha Grande but after a little hunting, we found the "fast" boat to the island. Taking the speed boat Is 3x the price of the slow ferry, but at $15, it was affordable and got us there in 30 minutes instead of 1 1/2 hours.


The island town of Abrao is very quaint in spite of historically being the center of Rio's prison system until the mid 1960's. Today, it's small town with cobble stone and sandy streets. The beaches are magnificent. The back drop is a dense jungle with enormous rock outcroppings. 



We stayed in the center of town at a pousada (B&B) just off the beach that offered a sparse room with a decent buffet breakfast. The weather ranged from sunny days to overcast with light rains. Fortunately, the day we picked to go on a boat and beach tour, it turned out to be the sunniest day we spent in Ilha Grande.


The boat dropped us of at a small beach on the west side of the island. From there we had to walk across a pennisula to the east side (the windward side) of the island where there was a long stretch of white sandy beach. Truly a fabulours, world class beach - one of the best we've encountered. 




On one of the other days we were on Ilha Grande, we hiked to a lovely waterfall. It was a moderately easy hike through dense rain forest. Along the way, we found the town's aquaduct, a structure built well over a hundred years ago that still serves the community today. 


Our last day in Ilha Grande was spent dodging rain in between walks. But we still managed to take some nice walks around the hills of Abrao and along the beaches. Naturally, on the very morning we were ready to leave, we woke up to perfectly sunny skies. But, alas, it was time to leave and head off to Angra dos Reis, our next stop.




Sunday, May 3, 2015

Rio to Paraty

Rio de Janeiro to Paraty

                                                      Ipanema boardwalk.

After our sojourn to the past in Petropolis, we drove our rental car back to Rio's Galeao airport, a drive that should have taken an hour. But after encountering massive traffic jams and poor signage that led us astray, we got to the car rental agency way late. Budget, however, was kind enough to look the other way.

Our few days in Rio were spent meeting up with a childhood friend of mine and getting re-acquainted with a city that is now enormous in size from when I last saw it (besides, that had been through the eyes of a ten year old - what the heck did I know!).

                                              Rudi, Sandra, Diane and me.

Meeting my old friend certainly was a highlight of the trip. Rudi and his wife, Sandra, flew in for a day from Itu, to join us in Rio. It had been 55 years since we had seen each other and it showed. After introductions we immediately began to rekindle the connection. Yet for a time, the moment had been filled with trepidations because we didn't know how things would work out after all this time. 

We enjoyed reminiscing about the past, talked about our parents and more recent events in our lives. We lunched at a restaurant on the Copacabana beach and afterwards had dessert at a historic confectionary restaurant (Colombo), in the old center of Rio. 

                               At Colombo's enjoying some fabulous desserts and coffee.

It was a truly unique experience seeing such an old friend again, after so many years. In the early evening we said our good-byes and made it a point to meet before another 55 years went by.

The next couple of days in Rio were spent getting more acquainted with the city and making plans for going south to the colonial town of Paraty.

Paraty

                                         The main church in Paraty.

The bus to Paraty took nearly four hours. Part of the drive took us through hillside areas. But at one point we got to the coast line and drove the rest of the way, along a beautiful coast. 

Paraty (pronounced Parachee) has a newer area and a historic zone. Our "pousada", which is more or less a Brazilian B&B, borders the old and new area. With wonderful hosts, great breakfasts and strong, Brazilian coffee - what else could one ask for.

                        Colorful tour boats line the docks offering day-long island trips.

On our first full day in Paraty, we took a boat trip with a big group of people (mostly Brazilians). It was a lot of fun and we ended up spending most of our time with a young Brazilian couple (Lia and Gabriel) from our B&B, who spoke excellent English. 



                             Our island excursion and new Brazilian friends, Lia and Gabriel 

The boat tour took us to several islands and bays where we could swim and relax. Some of the stops were beaches with backdrops of dense jungles. They reminded us of some of the South Pacific islands we've visited. The only things missing were the white sandy coral beaches. Here the beaches had the more typical light browne sand.

                                     One of the stops on our waterfall and cachaça tour.

                   Beautiful Bamboo shutes.

The next day we took a tour of the surrounding mountain area where there are lots of rivers and waterfalls. The tour also took us to some cachaca distillaries.

                                 One of the cachaça distillaries we stopped at.


On our last day in Paraty, we jumped on a local bus that took us across the narrow peninsula to a small, sleepy beach town called Trindade, pronounced "Treendahjee".

                                                       Trindade beach.


Our last evening in Parady we walked along the historic downtown area, browsed in some of the quaint stores and had a traditional Brazilian dinner consisting of fish, feijão (black beans) and rice. For drinks, we had caipirinhas, the typical Brazilian cachaça drink made with limes.    








Friday, April 24, 2015

Petropolis (State of Rio de Janeiro)


After our arrival at Rio's Galeao International airport, we rented a car and drove a straight to Petropolis (a city one hour away in the surrounding mountain side - a place where I lived from when I was three years old to when I was ten). 

My familty left Petropolis 55 years ago, when it was still a small, sleepy town - a place where elite Cariocas (Rio's citizens) had a second home to get away from Rio's sweltering summer heat.

Today it's a bustling city of nearly 150,000, with lots of noise and traffic congestion. We came here mostly as a walk down memory lane for me. It's by no means a tourist mecca, in spite of being a historically interesting city. Petropolis, after all, was the home of the two emperors of Brazil, Dom Pedro I and the II. 

After checking into our quaint hotel, Casablanca Koeler, we started on our tour of Petropolis searching for the flat I lived in that was nearby. On our way, we found the sports club where I used to swim (the Petropolitano), the Bohemia Brewery (where my mom would send me to get brewer's yeast from the vats to help with stomach ailments, and the Palacio Cristal (both very near to where I lived).


                                        We lived in the top flat on the right.

We then made out way to Avenida Iperanga, where I attended kindergarten (and just down the street from the school was where one of my parent's friend's lived. All places were quite recognizeable.

    Diane looking for gold at the end of the rainbow.

After almoco (lunch - the main meal of the day here), we walked along the main downtown streets. Lots of changes were evident, yet it all looked surrealistically as I remember it, but much busier.

On Sunday morning, after a big buffet breakfast, we headed by car to Palacio Quitandinha. It's a huge and extravagant building designed in the 1930's by an Italian architect in a French-Italian style with a lake in front of it in the shape of Brazil. The inside is decorated in more of an art decco style. 


The once casino, then hotel, now condo units Quitandinha was the largest hotel in Latin America. It had quite a history, particularly with such ilustrious guests such as Errol Flynn, Orson Welles, Lana Turner, Greta Garbo, Walt Disney, Eva Peron and many others.




On our return from Quitandinha, we stopped at another house my family had lived. As soon as we got within a mile or so of the neighborhood, I began to recognize the area, the streets, the park and some of the shabby store fronts. We drove right up to the street, turned onto it and there it was - the house I lived in from when I was about three. We lived there for four years. It brought back lots of good memories I had playing with my neighborhood friends who lived just across the street.

                             This is the first house we lived in when we moved to Petropolis.

Later in the afternoon, after a tasty lunch of grilled chicken, rice, broccoli and feijao (black beans), we visited the Imperial Palace where the two emporers of Brazil lived. No photos allowed inside but here's what it looked like outside.

                                     The Imperial Palace of Dom Pedro I and II.

Our last stop for the day was a visit to Casa de Iperanga, an old Victorian style home built in the late 1800's with an elegantly designed garden. It was owned by a wealthy coffee merchant, Jose Guerra, whose descendants still run the property. Although it had obviously seen better days, we got an informative, private tour of the house by the great-great nephew of the original owner. One of the interesting aspects of it was that it was one of the first homes in Petropolis to have electricity. 

                                                        Casa Iperanga.


Our last day in Petropolis was spent mostly on walks through town, taking in the scenary of a city I'll probably never visit again but one that was once an integral part of my youth. It's a place that's at once familiar and yet foreign to me.


                                                       Palacio Amarelo



                      Having a "cafezinho" or espresso.

                                   The cathedral of Sao Pedro de Alcantara.